Saturday, March 17, 2018

Maidenstoen – Incredible Single-Vineyard Rieslings from California’s Central Coast

Michael Callahan has a thing for Riesling — an obsession, perhaps. But, as a Riesling-lover in general, and a big fan of California Riesling, I find it refreshing.

Michael, who works at Chamisal Vineyards, has scoured various Central Coast sites for Riesling , and has found some real beauties. Under his Maidenstoen label (which he started in 2013) Michael bottles single-vineyard Rieslings that speak clearly of their place. He seems to have set a mission with these wines: to pay homage to Riesling’s importance in the history of California wine, and to make sure Cali Riesling has a viable future.

“Although tastes change and financial decisions must be made, it is important to have advocates in order to keep some pieces of what California’s winegrowing history is,” Michael told me. “It is impossible to contribute to the greater world of wine without an understanding of our history and interpreting what is capable from our older vineyards. The story of California wine should be more than just Cabernet or whatever is selling for the most dollars.”

I say: Amen!

Even though dry Riesling is popular with consumers, Michael laments how some older Riesling vineyards in California have been pulled out or grafted to other varieties. And the price that growers can fetch for their Riesling make it a difficult endeavor. But lovers of dry Riesling have a lot to get excited about when it comes to California. Though few and far between, there are some thrilling Rieslings out there. And (like these wines that cost $22 a pop), the quality to price ratio can be incredibly high.

Michael recently sent me three of his 2016 Rieslings, sourced from select vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills, Monterey and Edna Valley. My notes on these exceptional wines are below.

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Lafond Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Light gold color. Nose shows lime, apricot, lemon candle, and some chalky, oyster she and sea salt notes, mixed with some spicy/floral notes. Creamy presence on the palate, but lovely focus and acidity. Orange zest, pineapple and lime fruit is topped in mineral dust, stony-flinty elements, spiced white tea. I get some wax and honeycomb too, but the wine stays focused and bright throughout. Gorgeous, deep, complex, age-worthy stuff. Sta. Rita Hills Riesling is rare, but this site contains some vines dating back to 1971! (94 points)

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Coast View Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
Pretty gold color. Lovely aromas of apricot, orange, lime zest, waves of white flowers, chalky and ocean spray notes – rocky minerals and mountain stream, too. Plump texture but such mouth-watering acidity, the balance is lovely. Tart lime, apricot, airy and fresh and floral with honeysuckle and dandelion. Some mineral notes, limestone, that exquisite Riesling minerality and vibrancy, with a chalky, floral finish.  An exceptional California Riesling and absolutely delicious. From a 2,200-foot elevation vineyard on terraced rows, planted in decomposed granite soils. (93 points)

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Oliver's Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Light yellow color. The nose shows sea salt, ginger, gorgeous lemon-lime and kiwi, yellow flowers, lots going on aromatically. Crisp acidity on the palate, such focus, but the fruit is rich and juicy (guava, kiwi, drizzled in lime). Brisk notes of mineral and chalk dust combine well with deep notes of honey and white tea. A long finish with stony mineral elements. Gorgeous depth but such freshness, too. From a clay soil vineyard six miles from the coast. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Aridus - Exploring Arizona Wine in Old Town Scottsdale

I hadn’t heard of Aridus before receiving some samples from them last year. But as I uncorked and tasted them, I knew I’d found another Arizona producer to watch.
The tasting room in Old Town Scottsdale has been open for about three years, and seems to be thriving. I was in Scottsdale for a conference, and decided to pop in to Aridus for a visit. I’ve never been a big fan of Scottsdale before (strikes me as a bit hokey sometimes), but I had an absolute blast tasting wine at Kazimierz, and enjoyed the eclectic wine list and incredible food at Cowboy Ciao.
Anyway, so Aridus: This tasting room is designed to turn more people on to the producer’s wines. They’re based in Wilcoz, Arizona, which is located in the southeastern part of the state, east of Tuscon. Scott and Joan Dahmner founded Aridus (a derivation of the Latin word for dry or arid) in 2012. They sources grapes from about 40 acres of estate vineyards above Willcox, Arizona (which sits at an impressive 5,200 feet in elevation). They also crush grapes from other vineyards in Arizona, and some grapes from New Mexico and California.
Arizona wines are prime for exploration right now. There are lots of conscientious producers experimenting with all sorts of grapes, making wines of all sorts of styles. Unfortunately, the wines are made in relatively small quantities, and not a lot of the wine gets distribution outside of the region. But if you’re ever traveling in Arizona, it’s worth looking into.
And with a tasting room right there in Scottsdale, Aridus is a great place to start.
Here are my notes on the wines I tasted…
2014 ARIDUS Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Nose shows butter, honeyed tea and yellow apples. Creamy and plum but nice freshness. Bruised apple and apricot mix with candle wax, hazelnut and whipped butter. Delicious stuff. (88 points)
2015 ARIDUS Viognier - Arizona, Cochise County
A fascinating and bright interpretation of this grape. Salty aromas with white flowers and apricot. Peachy and juicy on the palate but the acidity is so refreshing and the fruit is crisp, laced with salted almond and white flower notes. A more restrained and less intensely tropical or honeyed take on this grape, and I love it. (90 points)
2015 ARIDUS Grenache - Arizona, Cochise County
Nose shows spicy red cherries, roses and pepper. Bold but not heavy, with light tannins and medium acidity, despite a 15%+ alcohol level, the wine feels almost light, with tart cherry and juicy red currant fruit. Notes of pepper, chestnut and vanilla add complexity. A delicious Grenache that goes down so easily. Will try to hold my bottle for two or three years to see what happens. (89 points) 
2015 ARIDUS Tempranillo - Arizona, Cochise County
Pepper, earthy, red plums on the nose. Rich but spicy with suave tannins and flavors of spicy red currants. Pepper, earth, sage. Spicy and delicious. (87 points)
2015 ARIDUS Cabernet Sauvignon - Arizona, Cochise County
Eucalyptus and spicy herb aromas with sweet red currants. Plush on the palate, medium acid, soft tannins, flavors of red currants and strawberry jam with cola, toasted oak, pepper and earth. Fun stuff. Aged 14 months in 80% new French oak. (87 points)
2013 ARIDUS Vintner's Reserve - Arizona, Cochise County
$60 (member’s only)
Sweet and dark and jammy nose with pepper and violets. Rich and juicy, well-structured but yummy, with plums, blackberries, scorched earth, sweet cola and cedar. Juicy and delicious but some solid complexity. 44% Zinfandel, 28% Syrah, 28% Petite Sirah, aged three years in oak and two in bottle before release. (88 points)

Monday, March 12, 2018

Gods of the Wachau: Pichler and Hirtzberger

I have been obsessed with the Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners from F.X. Pichler and Franz Hirtzberger for a solid decade now. And with each tasting of their wines, I’m constantly impressed and refreshed. The quality, depth, and focus of the wines is consistent across vintages, and with such site-specific nuances, the wines offer a master class in Wachau terroir. These are the kinds of wines that translate their site with clarity.

And they’re just so damned delicious. Not to mention age-worthy. I have a bunch of Pichlers and Hirtzbergers buried that I’m pretending I don’t know exist, at least for another five or six years. The wines age beautifully, but they’re also ready to drink young, because they offer such freshness and fruit.

I recently tasted three wines apiece from Pichler and Hirtzberger at Weygandt Wines, which imports these wines. As always, their offerings are well-priced for the high quality, and the knowledge of the staff (should you have any Austria or other wine-related questions) is top notch.

Here are my notes on the wines I tasted…

2014 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Lots of lemon, grapefruit and minerals on the nose. Stony and dusty and mineral-driven on the palate, dry and brisk and doused in lemon and slate and sea salt. Delicious stuff that should evolve so nicely. (91 points)

2015 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kirchweg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau 

Loving the spicy complexity on the nose (white pepper, nettle, tobacco) with tropical juices mixed in. Peachy and rich on the palate, almost waxy, but also precise acidity and lots of zesty fruit. Tropical, too, and honeyed tea, but it stays elegant and spicy and complex. Wow this should age beautifully. (93 points)

2014 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Gorgeous aromatics of spiced honeyed tea, peach nectar, mineral and limestone dust. Rich and waxy texture on the palate, with plump, tropical fruits. But the zesty acidity and complex floral, soap, incense sticks, nettle and perfume elements make for a seriously complex wine. As with all of these wines, I want to re-taste it in five years. (93 points)

2015 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Oberhauser - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

F.X. (left) and the next generation (Lucas) Pichler craft exquisite
wines, easily some of the best Rieslings and Gruners in Austria.
Love the aromas of apricot, key lime, honey and salty, mineral notes. So precise and crisp on the palate, lush texture combines with crusty minerals and sea salt. Apricot and lime glazed in honey and white tea. Complex, long, elegant, age-worthy. (93 points) 

2014 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau 

Aromas of green apples, peaches, ripe but fresh with floral perfume and chalk dust notes. Such precision on the palate, an elegant and stony wine, but plenty of texture. Lime and peach laced with seashells, mineral dust, saline, cut floral stems. Delicious, deep, deserves lots of time, but a total beauty. (94 points)

2013 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Liebenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Aromas of rich apricot, lemon curd, with spicy tobacco and minerals. Waxy and plump but zesty acidity, I like the combo of honey, tropical fruit with spicy ginger, white pepper, spiced tea, mineral, dusty earth. A layered, fascinating, delicious wine. (93 points)

Saturday, March 10, 2018

Historic and Delicious Riojas from CVNE

I’m a huge Rioja evangelist. The history, the unique place in the spectrum of red (and white) wines, the quality and value available — these wines entice me. So I was excited to taste six different Riojas from CVNE

Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España (the Northern Spanish Wine Company), dates back to 1879, when it was founded by two brothers from the Real de Asua family in Haro, Rioja Alta. You’ll see the wines referred to as “Cune” and hear the word spoken phonetically, which is based on an old misspelling that stuck.

Today the CVNE winery still sits on its original site and it is still controlled by direct descendants of the founding family. CVNE now encompasses four different wineries: CVNE, Imperial, Viña Real and Contino. The first Viña Real wines were launched in 1920, and the wines are made from grapes grown in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa province.

I tasted three wines apiece from CVNE and Viña Real, and was blown away again by the high quality, relatively low price points, and aging potential of these wines. If you’re looking to stock your cellar with some Tempranillo-based wines, without breaking the bank, check out CVNE.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2014 C.V.N.E. Rioja Cune Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta
SRP: $13
Ruby red color. Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, tobacco leaf, white pepper and leather. Bright acidity on the palate, a fresh appeal with dusty tannins and bright red cherries and strawberries. I get notes of raspberry leaf tea, coffee, cedar and tobacco. Fresh and lively but structured well and could use some near-term aging. Includes a combined 15% Graciano and Mazuelo. (88 points) 

2013 C.V.N.E. Rioja Cune Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta
SRP: $28
Deep ruby, light violet color. Aromas of raspberries, red currants, fig paste, along with spicy peppercorns, black tea and cocoa. Velvety and rich on the palate wity smooth but structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Currants and plum fruit, suave and tangy, with complex leather, cocoa, dusty earth, graphite and tobacco elements. Beautiful now, but aging potential for sure. Includes a combined 15% Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. (90 points) 

2011 C.V.N.E. Rioja Cune Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta
SRP: $33
Deep ruby color. Lovely aromatics of leather, tobacco, library dust, cinnamon spice, on top of red currant and fig paste. So focused on the palate with suave tannins and refreshing acidity, along with tangy red and black currants and plums. Complex elements of cocoa, grilled herbs, chewing tobacco, spiced tea. Long finish with notes of mineral, vanilla and cedar. Beautiful now, but no rush on this. Includes 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. (92 points) 

2013 C.V.N.E. Rioja Viña Real Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja Alavesa
SRP: $15
Pretty ruby color. Tart and bright aromas of red and black cherries, red currants, with cocoa, tobacco, raspberry leaf and cedar. Bright and zesty appeal on the palate, lively and fresh with dusty tannins and flavors of tart red and black cherry fruit, some plum skin. Chewing tobacco, sage, cocoa, spice rub and pine add complexity. Approachable but structured, what a solid Crianza for the price. Tempranillo with a combined 10% Garnacha, Graciana, Mazuelo. (88 points) 

2013 C.V.N.E. Rioja Viña Real Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja Alavesa
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Nose shows dusty earth, leather, cigar box, roses and incense sticks on top of black cherries and spicy red currants. Structured but velvety on the palate, tangy and bright, too, with tart black and red cherry fruit. Complexity comes in waves: tobacco, sage, spicy herbs, leather, roses, black tea. Age-worthy but accessible now, the freshness and minerality on the finish is impressive. Tempranillo with 10% Garnacha and 5% Mazuelo. (90 points) 

2010 C.V.N.E. Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja Alavesa
SRP: $47
Deep ruby color. Aromas show rich, dark, yet tart fruits (black and red currants and warm berry compote), along with violets, leather and incense sticks. Suave and silky, structured but fin tannins, the freshness is lovely. Tart black cherry, red and black plums, the finesse and freshness in this wine is something else. Interwoven elements of dusty earth, lavender, leather, tobacco, violets. Beautiful now but many years of development potential. Includes 5% Graciano. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, March 5, 2018

Wine Reviews: Colorado's Governor Cup Award Winners

I’ve been tasting the winners of Colorado’s Governor’s Cup Awards for two years now, and here’s my third installment.

Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. For the 2017 competition, 46 wineries submitted 325 wines, and the top 12, which I reviewed, are featured prominently as part of a
“Governor’s Cup Case.”

Colorado doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of production. According to the Colorado Wine trade group, Colorado wineries released about
178,000 cases in 2017. But with abundant sunshine (more than 300 days per year) and low humidity, the raw ingredients are there. And there seems to be quite a bit of enthusiasm and experimentation going on in Colorado.

A few of the “wines” in this case aren’t grape wines. A cider, a mead and a fruit wine are included. Also, one of the wines comes from Sonoma County fruit, which struck me as odd, and perhaps counterproductive, for a competition designed to focus on Colorado’s wine industry. That said, there were some delicious and impressive wines in the mix.

These were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2013 Infinite Monkey Theorem Sparkling Albariño
SRP: $55
Golden color. Lovely aromas of apricots, lemons, chalk dust, dandelion, honeysuckle, sea sat. Crisp and bright on the palate with faint but pleasant bubbles. Kumquat, tangerine and apricot fruit, juicy and delicious, mixed well with yellow flowers, chalk dust, smashed seashells, honeycomb. Wow, the complexity and deliciousness are impressive. This is a gutsy wine (considering the name, the fact it is a sparkling Albarino under crown cap, and costs $55), but it somehow pulls it off. (90 points)

2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Riesling
SRP: $14
Medium gold color. Aromas of peach, guava, lime, notes of sea salt and honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate, medium acidity balances out some sweetness. Peaches, yellow plum and yellow raisins. Lots of yellow flowers, with some honey, cinnamon sticks. Plush, rich, not too sweet. (86 points)

2015 Carlson Vineyards Lemberger Tyrannosaurus Red
SRP: $17
Pale ruby color. Aromas of sweet raspberries, strawberry jam, roses, some black pepper and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied with medium acidity and fleshy tannins. Spicy wild raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, the fruit mixes with notes of cola, rhubarb and black tea. Impressive take on this grape, food-friendly, fun (if not super deep or complex), well-made. (86 points)

2015 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Merlot Reserve
SRP: $28
Rich ruby color. Aromas of sweet plums, red and black currants, blueberries, some spicy tobacco and pepper and violets. Fresh acidity frames the palate, and the tannins and light and dusty, velvety red and black plums and cherries. Some leathery, charcoal, spiced tea, some roses and red licorice. Stays vibrant, bright, easy to drink, but shows some delicious and complex elements. (87 points)

2015 Guy Drew Vineyards Syrah
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. Tangy black fruit (blackberries and plums) along with ginger, cinnamon, black pepper and campfire smoke. Full-bodied on the palate with grippy, structured tannins and moderating acidity to set the stage for sweet but tart black currant and plum fruit. Lots of dark chocolate, espresso, gravelly-loam notes and some vanilla, cedar. Impressive, delicious stuff from Montezuma County. (87 points)

2014 Creekside Cellars Franc Colorado's Cabernet
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black cherries and plums, along with black pepper, mushroom, cedar shavings, coffee grounds. Full-bodied, structured well but silky, with fresh acidity. Tart black cherries, blackberries, crunchy plum skins. Coffee, cedar and roasted chestnut mix with black olive, charred herbs and cracked pepper. A bit overt with oak influences perhaps, but still very well done. (88 points)

2015 Decadent Saint Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. Aromas of smoky and sweet black cherries, black currant, saucy and rich fruit with notes of mocha, eucalyptus, cigar lounge and vanilla. Surprisingly fresh acidity on a full-bodied frame with silky tannins. Fresh but bold with tart black currant and blueberry, the fruit is laced with graphite, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Rich but fresh finish. The wine is produced in Colorado, but the grapes are sourced from Sonoma County. (88 points)

N.V. Meadery of the Rockies Strawberry Honey Wine
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Smells of strawberries, candied apple, white flowers, sweet perfume. Full and rich on the palate but moderate acidity, the sweetness is integrated well. Tangy cherry and strawberries, honeyed richness, candle wax notes, floral perfume. Plump but balanced quite nicely. (85 points)

2017 Colorado Cider Company Grasshop'ah
SRP: $11/4-pack cans
Shows a zippy, fresh appeal with plenty of ripe apple, apricot and peach along with notes of spiced herbs, white pepper, floral perfume. Zippy, fresh and fun. A lightly hopped cider. (87 points)

<85 points 

N.V. Colorado Cellars Raspberry
SRP: $15
Light cherry color. Smells like raspberry jam, maraschino cherries, red hot candies and rose tea. Juicy and sweet but some refreshing acidity keeps it from being too heavy. Candied fruit (raspberry jam, cherry cough drops, strawberry cheesecake topping) flavors dominate, with hints of roses and bitter tea. Grape wine with raspberry juice added.

2016 Whitewater Hill Sweetheart Red
SRP: $14
Bright ruby color. Aromas of sweet cherry preserves, prunes, currant paste, sweet coffee. Rich and sweet but some lively (surprisingly so) acidity. Red currant and strawberry jams mix with sweet cola, coffee, toasted coconut. Simple, fun, sweet red dessert wine.

2013 Two Rivers Port Château Deux Fleuves
SRP: $14/375ml
Deep ruby color. Aromas of cranberry sauce, fig paste, with cedar, sweet coffee and vanilla. Sweet and chewy on the palate with medium tannins and tangy acidity. Red currant jam, sour cherries, along with flavors of red licorice and ginger snap. Interesting flavors but the sweetness and sour aspects seem a bit off balance. 19.6% alcohol.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, February 24, 2018

Siduri Excels with Newly-Released 2015 Pinot Noirs

I’ve been a big fan of Siduri Pinot Noirs for many years. I’ve visited several times, collected the wines, and turned on several friends to them.

But this is the first time I’ve received samples to review. And that’s probably because in 2015, Adam and Diana Lee sold their Siduri label to the California wine powerhouse, Jackson Family Wines. The sale came as a shock to me. After the same company had purchased Copain (another one of my favorite Sonoma-based producers), I began to feel a bit nostalgic, like the wines I loved were changing.

But that doesn’t seem to be the case at all. Copain still rocks, and as the newly-released 2015s show, so does Siduri. It seems Jackson Family was looking for several high-end California gems to add to their portfolio, and they chose wisely. In an email to their wine club members announcing the sale, Adam and Diana wrote: “The goals we hold remain the same, but we believe that our ability to reach them has exponentially increased.” If their 2015s are any indicator, I’m encouraged about the future of Siduri’s wines.

These single-vineyard designate wines are delicious across the board, but the vineyard-specific nuances makes tasting them side-by-side an exciting and interesting experience. With increased access to vineyard sources scattered around various Northern and Central California appellations (and some in Oregon), Siduri is a great way to explore the different expressions of some stellar vineyards. The wines aren’t cheap ($50 a pop), but they over-deliver for that price. The wines always brings juicy cherry fruit to the table, but they also show nuance, freshness and liveliness, with lots of complex spicy, earthy, and floral complexity.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Siduri Pinot Noir John Sebastiano- California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $50
Aromas of cherries, pomegranate, raspberry, red apple peel, complex combination of rose petal, floral tea, elegant yet the nose pops. Medium/full-bodied with a chewy texture, suave tannins and vibrant acidity. Black cherries, raspberries, red apple, cranberry jam, the fruit is complex and pure. Complexities of roses, rhubarb, black tea, light roast coffee. Everything is woven together in a fresh but juicy package. Lovely now but could do interesting things in the next five years. 11 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points)

2015 Siduri Pinot Noir Parsons' Vineyard- California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $50
Nose shows bright cherries, pomegranate, cola, lots of spicy/herbal notes like clove, mint, rhubarb and raspberry leaf. Medium/full-bodied with lively acidity and dusty tannins, the balance and freshness are wonderful. Cranberries, sweet cherries, raspberry jam, the fruit is fresh and tangy but loaded with flavors. Notes of cola, rhubarb, mint, coffee. Flavorful but bright, this drinks wonderfully now but could show even more in three or four years. 15 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Siduri Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard- California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $55
Gushing aromas but the fruit is tart as well (cherries, red plums, raspberries), along with cola, rose hips, cedar, and interesting elements of black tea and mushroom. Zesty acidity frames the palate, velvety feel, shows dusty tannins. The fruit tastes crisp and chilled, with raspberries, strawberries. Complex blend of cola, chestnut, coffee, rose petals, along with lasting notes of wet leaves and mushrooms. Tastes so good right out of the bottle, but the savory elements will develop more with time. 15 months in 50% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Siduri Pinot Noir Muirfield Vineyard- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
SRP: $50
Crisp, chilled red berries on the nose (raspberry, strawberry) along with rhubarb, rose petals, mushrooms, spiced herbal tea — lovely to sniff. On the palate, tangy acidity and structured but easy-going tannins, and the red currant, red apple peel and raspberry fruit is tart but juicy. Complex elements of rhubarb, black pepper, dusty earth. Savory but bright, vibrant but textured and complex. 15 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.