Thursday, May 8, 2014

Charismatic Chenin Blancs From Francois Chidaine

In January, I spent five days tasting my way through the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France. The trip was organized and sponsored by SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, and centered around the Millésime Bio Fair in Montpellier, a convention of more than 700 organic winemakers from 12 countries.

During the fair, I mingled through the tasting tables, stopping to taste and talk with winemakers. High on my list of must-see producers was Francois Chidaine, who has long been one of my favorite artists of the Chenin Blanc grape. These Loire Valley wines have always astounded me with their depth, purity and minerality. From bone dry to sweet, they are some of the best examples of Chenin Blanc I’ve come across.

Here are my notes on Francois’ wines…

N.V. François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Méthode Traditionelle Brut - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
White flowers, lemon zest and chammomile tea on the nose. Crisp and mineral-driven on the palate, with fine bubbles, nectarine and melon rind flavors. Love the oceanic and mineral stream aspects. (88 points)

2012 François Chidaine Vouvray Sec Les Argiles - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Aromas of white peach and nectarine, mixed with crushed stones and slate. Crisp and pure on the palate, with melon and lime peel. So much mineral and sea shell flavors. Sexy, alive, sure to be long-lived. (89 points)

2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
I love this wine, and 2011 is another solid example. Floral, peach, nectarine, minerals on the nose. Peach and cantaloupe all over the palate, but also really tangy. Creamy, slightly nutty, with a bit more honey than the Franc de Pied bottling. Great length on the palate, this will open up a lot over the next few years, I’m guessing. (90 points)

2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Franc de Pied Les Bournais - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Honey, floral, nectarine, apricot and minerals on the nose. Richly textured, honeyed on the palate with nervy acid and lots of limestone and rocks. Lemon peel and peach flavors, mix with limestone and lychee nut. Long and full yet sleek. For me, this might be just a hair above the regular Les Bournais, possibly a little more long-lived, but is it worth the extra money? (90 points)

2011 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Peaches, honey, mixed nuts and crushed rocks on the nose. The palate is rich, but buttressed by clean acid. So full and floral, with complex apricot, peach nectar, nuts and herbal tea. Long finish with dried white flowers and clay soil. I’d like to try this wine with five years on it. (90 points)

2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Aromas of apricots, honey, yellow flowers and mountain streams. Richly textured, great freshness. Honeydew, nectarine and sweet peaches, along with white tea, flowers and crushed nutshells. Sweet but balanced, a bit low on the mineral content but still incredibly delicious. (91 points)

2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Moelleux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Deep aromatic display of honey, apricots and flowers. Rich and lush, but also balanced and pure, and not in the slightest bit cloying. Love the apricot, nectarine and pineapple fruit, mixed with cinnamon, lanolin oily undertones. Not a ton of minerality, but it’s still amazing. One for the cellar for sure. (92 points)

2010 François Chidaine Vouvray Moelleux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Complex aromas of honeycomb, apricot, nectarine and chalk. Juicy and rich on the palate with nervy acid. Flavors of honey-glazed pears, caramel, pineapple and lychee. Not too rich because of an underlying sense of chalk and minerals. Long and complex with a long life ahead. (92 points)

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